Few garments are as instantly recognisable as the cheongsam — elegant, structured and quietly powerful. Also known as the qipao, it is a true test of tailoring. Learning how to make a cheongsam rewards you with one of the most beautiful dresses you can sew. Here is an introduction to the garment and what making one involves.

What is a cheongsam?

The cheongsam (qipao) is a form-fitting Chinese dress, traditionally made in silk or brocade. Its signature features are unmistakable:

• The mandarin collar — a neat, stand-up collar that frames the neck.
• A close, shaped fit — achieved with careful darts and seams.
• Side slits — for movement and elegance.
• Pankou (frog) fastenings — the decorative knotted closures along the opening.

The skills you'll use

The cheongsam is precise work, which is exactly what makes finishing one so satisfying:

• Accurate fitting and shaping for that signature silhouette.
• Constructing and attaching the mandarin collar cleanly.
• Handling fine, sometimes slippery fabrics with care.
• Making and placing the frog fastenings, and finishing the slits neatly.

A craft close to our roots

There is a lovely resonance in teaching this garment. Two Moles grew from Shanghai Tailors, the shop our founder Angela's grandfather opened after arriving in Malaysia from China with tailoring as his trade. That lineage of Chinese tailoring craft is part of who we are — you can read the family story here. Sewing a cheongsam carries a little of that history in every seam.

Is a cheongsam hard to sew?

It is one of the more advanced garments, largely because of the precise fit, the collar and the fastenings. That is why it sits at the expert end of our journey — but with guidance and the right preparation, it is absolutely within reach. If you are working towards it, our dressmaking progression shows the steps to build first.

Learn to make a cheongsam with us

At Two Moles in Subang Jaya, the cheongsam is part of our expert package (RM1,200) — one intricate traditional piece, made over ten sessions with close personal guidance. Brand new to sewing? Start with our beginner classes and work your way up.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between a cheongsam and a qipao?

They refer to the same dress — "cheongsam" is the Cantonese-derived name, "qipao" the Mandarin. Both describe the fitted, mandarin-collared garment.

Do I need to be advanced to make one?

It is best suited to experienced sewers because of the fit and detailing. If you are starting out, build up through simpler garments first.

What fabric is traditional for a cheongsam?

Silk and brocade are classic, prized for their sheen and structure, though other fabrics are used too. We guide you on fabric choice in class.

Drawn to this timeless dress? Message us on WhatsApp or see the expert class.